OK, guys, huddle up: Let’s talk pants. When buying quality dress pants, there are multiple options at various prices. Regardless of the price, however, the most important aspect is the fit. Undoubtedly, new pants need to be tailored right off the bat, and a tailor will custom-fit the waistline to your body; this factor is really non-negotiable. There is, however, one aspect of your pants over which you have complete control: the break. The perfect break will speak volumes about your professional image.
First, to cover the basics, the break is where your pants fall on your shoes, creating a horizontal crease in the fabric across the front of your pant leg. It is simply a result of the length of your pants. A good break is not only visually appealing, but it also lets you know if you’re wearing your pants too short. For example, if the break comes too high or is not defined enough, your pants will look too short when you stand or walk.
Ill-fitting pants are a look that will never be fashionable, let alone excusable. So, to help you catch the right break, here are the three types available to you.
Medium break
The medium break is industry standard; it is the classic look for all men’s dress pants. Preferred by more conservative dressers, the medium break is the look of the buttoned-up, put-together, professional executive. It puts a nice, clean, semi-deep break across the pant leg. Again, it’s timeless and classic. But all men were not created equal, so the medium break is better suited to men of average height. Since the pant length will be average, those with average-length legs can pull off this look without the pants appearing too short. Although it does work best on a regular Joe, the medium break is exactly the look for the quintessential businessman.
Create it: Ask your tailor to adjust the length of your pants to hit midway between the top of your dress loafer and the top of your shoe sole.
Full break
While the medium break errs on the side of caution, the full break ramps it up on the fashion scale. Since it gives the pant leg a deep crease along the front, the full break is a trendier style for the more daring dresser. It is actually considered a more modern look for today’s working man. Full-break wearers could be described as gamblers -- those who like to push the envelope ever so slightly. Even if you’re not a gambler, though, the full break is almost necessary for taller men; it provides the additional length that men with longer legs need so they can keep their pants from appearing too short. But regardless of height, the full break is precisely the look for the adventurous professional who likes making a bold statement.
Create it: Ask your tailor to adjust the length of your pants to hit right at the top of your shoe sole.
Short break
The short break is the top rung of men’s fashion. Although this look could be referred to as “high waters,” the short break is now considered high fashion. To be sure, this look is not for the faint of heart. Throwing caution to the wind, the short break gives little to no crease in the pant leg, making for a very precise, tailored look. Interestingly, when shopping for a suit, you’ll find that the more expensive designers -- especially those from Italy -- employ the short break as their design standard in pants. Though anyone can tackle this look, the guys who truly pull it off the best are those with a slender torso and a 32” waist. But don’t let the ideal scare you away: The short break is the look for anyone who likes to kick ass and take names.
Create it: Ask your tailor to adjust the length of your pants to hit just below the top of your dress loafer.
Break It Down
All right, guys, we’ve covered the options available when tailoring the length of your pants. How long or how short you wear them can indicate the type of guy you are both inside and outside the boardroom. Keep these things in mind as you acquire new pants and even as you tailor old pairs. Now that you have the information you need -- break it down for me, will you?

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